1. A Camera bag
A camera bag will protect your gear and help you carry your equipment. The size and type of bag
depends on the size of your camera, how many lenses and accessories you own or intend to
purchase in the future.
Look for something that is rainproof and comfortable to carry and ideally does not advertise that you are carrying expensive camera gear. Tamrac, Lowenpro, Kata, and Crumpler are well known brand names for camera bags.
depends on the size of your camera, how many lenses and accessories you own or intend to
purchase in the future.
Look for something that is rainproof and comfortable to carry and ideally does not advertise that you are carrying expensive camera gear. Tamrac, Lowenpro, Kata, and Crumpler are well known brand names for camera bags.
2. Lens Cloth or Paper
Lens cloth or paper are important to clean your lenses. Some photographers prefer to buy a
lens pen with brush and soft cleaning chamois. All lenses should have a lens cap which is placed
over the lens when its carried in your bag. It's a good idea to use proper lens cleaning fluid and
always put the fluid on the lens paper not the lens before cleaning. Blow or brush away any grit
off the lens before cleaning it with paper so you don't scratch the lens surface. Never place a high
pressure air can nozzle close to your lens - keep it at least a few inches away. Never ever touch
the mirror or shutter on the inside of your SLR camera! Keep your fingers off the lens surface or
acid from your skin will etch your finger prints into the lens coating permanently.
lens pen with brush and soft cleaning chamois. All lenses should have a lens cap which is placed
over the lens when its carried in your bag. It's a good idea to use proper lens cleaning fluid and
always put the fluid on the lens paper not the lens before cleaning. Blow or brush away any grit
off the lens before cleaning it with paper so you don't scratch the lens surface. Never place a high
pressure air can nozzle close to your lens - keep it at least a few inches away. Never ever touch
the mirror or shutter on the inside of your SLR camera! Keep your fingers off the lens surface or
acid from your skin will etch your finger prints into the lens coating permanently.
3. Extra Batteries
Extra Batteries are essential if you plan to take a lot of pictures. Every photographer should have
at least one spare battery for their camera. Two may not be enough if you shoot in cold weather.
If you are going on a special trip, I recommend 3 batteries. I carry 4-6 with me just in case.
at least one spare battery for their camera. Two may not be enough if you shoot in cold weather.
If you are going on a special trip, I recommend 3 batteries. I carry 4-6 with me just in case.
4. Tripods
Tripod - Do you Need One? Tripods are not necessary for candid portraits unless you intend to
sell your images. If you become serious about taking landscapes, macro-photography, group
portraits or low light photography then a tripod becomes essential.
sell your images. If you become serious about taking landscapes, macro-photography, group
portraits or low light photography then a tripod becomes essential.
5. Flash
Flash - most point and shoot cameras and some DSLRs come with an on-camera flash. The
flash is very useful even in daylight as it can be used to fill in shadows, reduce contrast outside
and put a small highlight in your subjects eye making your pictures look more professional. Most
built in camera flashes are only bright enough to illuminate subjects about 6-12 feet (1-3 meters)
from the camera (but this also depends on the ISO setting and F-stop your are using). If you use
flash often then you might want to invest in a more powerful flash. Most cameras today use TTL
or Through The Lens metering which automatically provides correct exposure most of the time.
Some cameras also permit you to alter the flash output with a +\- compensation button. Mastering flash requires practice and experience. Read the flash section of your manual if you plan to use flash and do some testing before an important event. Most cameras are set by default to use front curtain sync flash which is suitable for most situations, but in low light can leave the background appearing black. Some cameras also offer slow-sync flash which simply means the camera shutter stays open for a while even after the flash fires to allow some of the ambient room light to become part of the exposure. Slow synch often requires the use of a tripod for best results. For most purposes the on camera flash is suitable for indoor and outdoor photographs when your subjects are close to the camera. Some cameras offer red-eye reduction which outputs a weak strobe light before the main flash fires. This causes the pupil in our eyes to get smaller - normally the pupil is large in low light and as a result a single bright flash can reflect of the retina of our eyes and we see red reflected from the back of the eye. Another way to reduce the 'red eye' effect is to have the flash head above or to the side of the lens - rather then right next to it as is the case in most point and shoot cameras.
flash is very useful even in daylight as it can be used to fill in shadows, reduce contrast outside
and put a small highlight in your subjects eye making your pictures look more professional. Most
built in camera flashes are only bright enough to illuminate subjects about 6-12 feet (1-3 meters)
from the camera (but this also depends on the ISO setting and F-stop your are using). If you use
flash often then you might want to invest in a more powerful flash. Most cameras today use TTL
or Through The Lens metering which automatically provides correct exposure most of the time.
Some cameras also permit you to alter the flash output with a +\- compensation button. Mastering flash requires practice and experience. Read the flash section of your manual if you plan to use flash and do some testing before an important event. Most cameras are set by default to use front curtain sync flash which is suitable for most situations, but in low light can leave the background appearing black. Some cameras also offer slow-sync flash which simply means the camera shutter stays open for a while even after the flash fires to allow some of the ambient room light to become part of the exposure. Slow synch often requires the use of a tripod for best results. For most purposes the on camera flash is suitable for indoor and outdoor photographs when your subjects are close to the camera. Some cameras offer red-eye reduction which outputs a weak strobe light before the main flash fires. This causes the pupil in our eyes to get smaller - normally the pupil is large in low light and as a result a single bright flash can reflect of the retina of our eyes and we see red reflected from the back of the eye. Another way to reduce the 'red eye' effect is to have the flash head above or to the side of the lens - rather then right next to it as is the case in most point and shoot cameras.